Building a Wood Folding Stool

Page Updated March 22, 2006

Back in 1995 I bought two wood folding stools at a flea market in Florence Alabama for about $15 dollars each. Since that time I have built over sixty of these and given them to 'deserving individuals.' The wood I use is salvaged 3/4" pine. You will need to cut 4 legs, 4 of the seat battens and one each of the other 4 parts(seats and leg braces). In addition, you will need some half inch diameter hardwood dowels. The handle dowel is about 11 " long and may have to be trimmed back at the end of assembly. With all the legs and battens assembled on the assumbly jig I found it easiest to drive the dowel through then cut it between the two legs on both sides with a thin kerf pull saw. This leaves the center handle (about 8.25" long) and a short 1.5" dowel in the 2 outside pieces on each side(one leg and one batten.) You will also need 2 short dowels 1.5" long. These two short dowels are driven into the mid part of the legs. Your first stool may not go together well and will require some 'tuning' to make it fold nicely. After several stools, you will find what procedures of cutting and assembly require care. I would suggest you take the time to make the assembly jig. If you feel you could benefit from an assembled stool(but not nailed or glued) to be used as a model, I could probably get one to you(USA only)for a little more than $25(shipping included). Just drop me a note. My address is on my home page.

(Click on picture for a larger view)

These are the Stool parts cut, drilled and sanded.

Click on the pictures below for dimensioned drawings that are 4 times as large. The dimensions assume 3/4" thick stock. You may find it necessary to change some of these sizes according to your taste. Once you click on the picture you will have to click on the "expand to regular size" icon(assuming you are using Microsoft I Explorer). The 2 seat sections can be crosscut from 1 x 6 stock, directly, and make each 12" long(although diagram below shows slightly less than 12"). The 2 bottom braces can be cut from 1 x 4 stock and as long as in the diagram below or just slightly longer. Since I use salvaged lumber, I find that slicing off .75" slices from 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's produces good 1.5" wood for the legs and battens. There is always tossed 2 x 4's thru 2 x 8's at job sites to scrounge up. The seats are labeled 11.875" but 12" is just fine. Also, leg braces can be slightly longer. The dimensions are what worked for me and, certainly, there is nothing sacred about other lengths of the parts. The screw locations should be checked on the assembly jig before drilling...these locations were taken from the original(bought) stool and may not apply to your stock. The 0.5" axle holes in the legs must be placed identically in all legs. I suggest you make a jig for your drill press similar to that shown toward the bottom of this page. At some point you will need to round the top parts of the battens and legs(there by the handle) so the seat sits flat. I use a belt sander.

The picture shows how to set up the assembly jig and is not to scale or proportional. It is important to keep the distance between the seat edges and the center of the dowel at 4 1/2" to preserve the geometry of the stool. However, the distance can be changed if you wish to make deeper seats. Be sure that the angled cuts on the ends of the battens and legs are opposite the part you are attaching to that respective member

I made the assembly jig from scraps and screwed it down to an old plywood door. The jig insures that the two legs are parallel. A half inch dowell alligns the top holes in the parts. [April 18, '06] It has been brought to my attention an error in the picture. The inside legs should have the bevels up and the outside legs should have the bevels down for proper assembly. I will change the picture in a few days.

The center of the axle dowel is marked and the seat edge index marks are made 4.5" from that line. The seats and leg supports are alligned and centered on the battens and legs respectively. The screw positions are then marked on each seat and support.

The screw holes are predrilled and counterbored. 1.25" pan head screws are used to attach the seats and leg supports. The mid-leg axle dowel is inserted(left proud for illustration). The assembly dowel is removed and replaced with a 8 1/4" long dowel that will be the stool handle. This dowel connects the two inner seat battens and the two inner legs. A small 1.5" long dowel is put in the axle hole in the upper part of the outside leg and the outside batten.

The whole thing is flipped and the other leg brace is attached.

The dowels are trimmed so the stool can fully collapse and the top members are rounded with a belt sander.

Well, there we have it. I still need to glue and brad the axles as discussed below and then I will sand off the hard edges.

Nailing and glueing. Click on pictures to read the instructions.

Jig I built to align the leg and batten for drilling.

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